Reflecting On London Collections: Men SS14
Boys are a very lucky breed come Spring Summer 2014! With a wealth of talented designers, reaching out to an even more experimental audience, everyone from Shrinking Violets to Uncle Henry will be able to find their dream outfit for next summer’s overdue heat wave!
New wave tracksuits, frantic psychedelia, frilly football kits, acid wash denim, and traditional tailoring, will all play a part in next summer’s wardrobe.
With the usual suspects showing at London Collections: Men for the third season, the highlights for me included Katie Eary’s red leopard’n’flamingo print shorts, shirts and jackets – a great look altogether, but even better as separates. Christopher Raeburn, the Prince of waterproofs, collection was mostly utilitarian with lots of patch pockets, drawstrings and zips – perfect for the British Summer time, and reminiscent of The Famous Five – practical, cool and ideal for festivals.
Cowboys can come out to play, with high waisted, wide legged western inspired looks at Topman Design and Martine Rose does her version of a pair of flares, in a very generously proportioned, white version.
If smart is your bag, look to Chester Barrie for 80s inspiration, and Pringle, Burberry Prorsum and Casely Hayford for safe, easy to wear, summer suits; Nick Tentis is another name to know for the more experimental – showing a collection designed for the City Rude Boy!
Tracksuits aren’t going anywhere. Matthew Miller does subtle sportswear well – going back to basics with soft, minimalist designs and muted colours; Lee Roach, Lou Dalton and Sibling also work the casual, with a but more kapow, and a few bomber jackets.
For the more flamboyant, you might want to touch base with Bobby Albey and Craig Dean, both at the MAN show- using cartoons and tie dye as the crux of their collections, which I am crossing my fingers will influence the womenswear too! Kit Neale is the name to look to, for a nod to your teenage years in a kaleidoscopic mishmash of colours and Agi and Sam provide colours for the grown ups! Also very in touch with his rainbow side, was Christopher Shannon, who was working 1970s collars in citrus colour PVC. Sounds a bit sweaty, but looks amazing with the matching glitter-dipped hair!
Not to shy away from ice cream shades, pink was a notable colour on the catwalks. It’s not compulsory, but it will be available. And the suit of the summer will be white. White two pieces were spotted in the Tom Ford collection, Spencer Hart, Rag and Bone, Nicole Fahri and Gieves shows. If you’re going to ooze glamour, think: Talented Mr Ripley, neat hair and shiny shoes. White leather or Astrid Andersen’s all in one lace body suit is also an option!
It’s a tough call to choose a favourite, but the Hentsch Man collection, reminiscent of mischief and very charismatic Mexico, really is too cool for school!
Words: Sara DarlingJump to comments