LFW: Something For The Boys
London Fashion Week, a five day womenswear extravaganza that has now reached monumental proportions and one which now has little or nothing to offer most men, or so one would assume given that this great city has its own stand-alone menswear fashion week. The truth is however; that amidst all the gowns and stilettos, there is still a smattering of menswear to be seen and noted by any eagle eyed ‘fashionisto’.
Sometimes it is seen interspersed with a designers women’s ready-to-wear collection, or at the various PR showcases and presentations held during the event, and in other cases some menswear brands still chose to launch their collections at LFW. Beige had a man on the ground at the shows naturally, and here we bring you a round-up of what was going on in the world of menswear.
Gunsmoke and Lavender
This new directional menswear line launched during LFW with a showcase that featured ‘real life’ models that included London DJ Prince Persona. The collection is edgy fashion forward clothing that plays with the traditions of menswear design and flirts heavily with androgyny. Designer Jo Hawtree’s boundary pushing line is pure indie glam rock for the East London boy who will love his bomber jackets (with their retro patterns), and slouchy and even sequinned tanks.
Undeniably London’s mother of the underground is designer Pam Hogg who has garnered a cult following of fans who worship her signature bodysuits. What marked Hogg’s Aw13 show out for us however was the incorporation of two androgynous yet masculine (given the models physiques) menswear looks. When approached as to whether or not this signified the possibility of more menswear in the future Pam had this to say;
“It was just my way of introducing the Empresses guards into the ballet sequence, but the kimono and split skirt can be worn by both men and women.”
Not perhaps the answer many (including ourselves) will have been wanting to hear, but here is to hoping that Hogg will indeed try her hand at menswear in the near future!
video courtesy of 55tv
Tom Van Der Borght & Bas Kosters
These two Dutch designers were spotted at Bloody Gray Presents, a LFW showcase of the design talents represented by the PR Company of the same name.
Tom Van Der Borght designs urban avant garde clothing that carries elements of ‘couture streetwear’ and his AW13 collection is a riot of pop art colours and his own original prints, in which the inspiration of artists such as Pollack to Basquiat can be seen. Unconventional and unisex, Van Der Borght’s collection is an irreverent look on ‘fashion’ which combines cutting edge fashion design and technologies with traditional crafts such as crochet. Tom with his wearable form of art is definitely ‘one to watch’!
Bas Kosters also draws upon popular culture and very Dutch sense of the unisex and avant garde as well as provocative slogans and designs that have in the past included penis print leggings (which were given the legend ‘Is that a cock on your legs’) . For Aw13 Kosters incorporates porn magazine prints and his own personal ‘characters’ such as Mr Love Belly for a loud and proud collection that is explosively colourful and eclectic; delightfully ‘ in your face’.
This Portuguese Embassy’s fashion showcase during LFW featured Joao Pedro Filipe’s label senhor Prudencio. The quality and craftsmanship of his ergonomic designs is truly exceptional; he has taken classical shapes and formed them into something truly unique and modern. Defined as a personification of the craft of a traditional Portuguese shoemaker from the 50s that is achieved through the communication and branding of the era, Joao creates amazing footwear, bags, gloves and belts for the man who requires something a little different, yet retaining its classicality and masculinity.
So there you have it gentleman, London fashion Week is not just for the ladies, as any stylish man about town should know.
Words: Ian Michael Luke TurnerJump to comments