Situated behind Lancaster Gate tube and a short stroll from Marble Arch, Angelus restaurant is a real find.
lt is a converted pub split into three areas; the dining room, a private room available for functions which seats 20 and a bar where you can eat drink and be merry. The dining room is a sophisticated art nouveau inspired space, free from blaring music and gaudy visual distractions, allowing you to concentrate on the traditional French (with a modern twist) menu.
Thierry Tomasin, co-owner and front of house, is charming. Rightfully proud he talked us through the menu pointing out recommendations and customer favourites. We began with a glass of house champagne, which is named after Thierry, an excellent palate cleanser. The wine list had a mind boggling 870 wines, predominantly French with prices to suit all budgets, we decided to let Thierry choose our wine by course which he was happy to do.
My dining companion Tim started with a creamy butternut squash soup with girolles accompanied by a fragrant homemade brioche scented with truffle oil. I opted for a marinated Loch Duart salmon with citrus fruits, herb creme fraiche and caviar. Both were delicious and disappeared quickly (must have been the stroll) and for the sake of reporting we ordered a third, beetroot Carpaccio with creamed goat’s cheese and delicate spiced cheese straws, this again was a great combination. The starters were accompanied by a light crisp sauvignon from the Loire.
A basket of assorted home made breads, which was frequently passed around, was difficult to refuse.
Main course was a roast stone bass, smoked garlic mash, confit of chicken wings and a red wine jus. The fish was beautifully cooked, the creamy mash was served with braised baby fennel and the wings added texture and flavour. Tim (the vegetarian) who is not always the easiest to cater for in a French restaurant tucked into millefeuille of wild mushroom and Jerusalem artichokes with balsamic cooked puy lentils, a stack of light pastry discs and an earthy mix of autumn on a plate. We enjoyed a more robust voignier from the Montpelier region with our main course.
Thierry recommended the assiette of desserts to us, which is a taster of all the desserts, although I felt it would have had me conveying this piece through a medium. We opted for a roast pear, rum and muscarado jelly with gingerbread ice cream. And my personal favourite, pannacotta with a chocolate and raisin fancier (it certainly was fancy) and a caramelized banana ice cream, all washed down with a sweet pruney sauterne.
Coffee came with petite fours which I somehow found room for. Tim ate the salted chocolate praline, which happens to be my favourite, and he assured me I would have loved it.
The staff are lovely, very knowledgeable and the atmosphere was buzzing with conversation and clinking glasses. I’ll be looking forward to returning and trying the brunch menu, although next time I must remember an elasticated waistband.
Starters £10.00 — 15.00
Mains £20.00 – 30.00
Desserts £10.00 – {14.00
Patrick Black
Angelus
4 Bathurst Street
Lancaster Gate W2 2SD
www.angeIusrestaurant.co.uk
